Dayflower Edging, a Gregorian New Year’s Gift For You

I adapted this edging from the classic Dayflower lace pattern in Barbara Walker’s Treasuries.  This will work beautifully with, “Assembly Tab Braid”, if you work it as an applied edging to the holes in the braid, so that you can encase another fabric in your edging, like a pillowcase edge, sleeve, hem, Easter dress edges, or some visible mending.  Let me know what you did with it!  I love to see your work.

(If you are a designer, I’d appreciate a mention, but by all means, edge something lovey in Dayflowers.)

I’ve charted the edging so that it begins with a point then widens, and finally tapers again.  It can be worked as a flat edging, but it’s hard to get a good start and stop point.  Someday I’ll fill in the triangles where a flower isn’t on a flat piece, maybe you’ll beat me to it!   I added a lot of grey no stitch boxes to the chart, because I like being able to see which stitches become parts of the flower, and where the vines diverge.  If jumping over the not a stitch gap is hard on your eyes, it might help to place a sticky note over the boxes that you are working. Then you can see which stitches you have already worked, and not worry about the ones to come.  And there are always the written instructions if your mind works better that way.

Cast on 2 sts provisionally.
Work Mary Thomas’s Picot Edging (This post has a photo tutorial. It can feel odd to start a row with a yarn over.)

 

Row 1: Yo, sl1, k1, psso. (2 sts)

Rep Row 1 until there are 4 loops, do not turn.  Drop yarn. If using double pointed needles, with the back point of the needle, pick up the 4 loops. Pick up the provisionally cast on sts.  Turn.  Pick up yarn.  (8 sts) Continue on with Row 1 of the Dayflower Edging instructions or chart.

If using another configuration of needle, turn, slip the two stitches onto the other needle, then pick up the 4 picot loops and the 2 provisionally cast on stitches. Then slide all 8 stitches onto the other needle.

Chart Dayflower Edging with the Flat Side on the Right

Row 1 (RS): K3, yo, k3tog, yo, k2. (8 sts)
Row 2 (WS): Yo, p2tog tbl, p3, k3.
Row 3: K1, (k2tog, yo) × 2, k1, yo, k2. (9 sts)
Row 4: Yo, p2tog tbl, p5, k2.
Row 5: K2, yo, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, k2. (11 sts)
Row 6: Yo, p2tog tbl, p7, k2.
Row 7: (K2tog, yo) × 2, k2tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2. (12 sts)
Row 8: Yo, p2tog tbl, p9, k1.
Row 9: K1, (yo, k2tog) × 2, k2, yo, k3, yo, k2. (14 sts)
Row 10: Yo, p2tog tbl, p11, k1.
Row 11: Kfb, yo, k2tog, (yo, k2tog, k2) × 2, yo, k1, yo, k2. (17 sts)
Row 12: Yo, p2tog tbl, p13, k2.
Row 13: K2, yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog × 3, k2, yo, k3, yo, k2.
Row 14: Yo, p2tog tbl, p13, k2.
Row 15: K1, kfb, yo, k2tog, k3tog × 2, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k2. (16 sts)
Row 16: Yo, p2tog tbl, p7, p2tog, p2, k3. (15 sts)
Row 17: K3, yo, k3tog, yo, k3, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k2. (16 sts)
Row 18: Yo, p2tog tbl, p11, k3.
Row 19: K1, (k2tog, yo) × 2, k1, (yo, k2, ssk) × 2, yo, k2. (17 sts)
Row 20: Yo, p2tog tbl, p13, k2.
Row 21: K2, yo, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, k2, ssk × 3, yo, k2.
Row 22: Yo, p2tog tbl, p13, k2.
Row 23: (K2tog, yo) × 2, k2tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, sssk × 2, k2. (14 sts)
Row 24: Yo, p1, sssp, p9, k1. (13 sts)
Row 25: K1, (yo, k2tog) × 2, k2, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k1. (14 sts)
Row 26: Yo, p2tog tbl, p11, k1.
Row 27: Kfb, yo, k2tog, (yo, k2tog, k2) × 2, yo, k1, yo, k2. (17 sts)
Row 28: Yo, p2tog tbl, p13, k2.
Row 29: K2, yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog × 3, k2, yo, k3, yo, k2.
Row 30: Yo, p2tog tbl, p13, k2.
Row 31: K1, kfb, yo, k2tog, k3tog × 2, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k2. (16 sts)
Row 32: Yo, p2tog tbl, p7, p2tog, p2, k3. (15 sts)
Row 33: K3, yo, k3tog, yo, k3, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k2. (16 sts)

Repeat rows 18-33 until the piece is 2 flowers short of desired length (accounting for blocking of course)

Row 34: Yo, p2tog tbl, p11, k3.
Row 35: K1, (k2tog, yo) × 2, k1, (yo, k2, ssk) × 2, yo, k2. (17 sts)
Row 36: Yo, p2tog tbl, p13, k2.
Row 37: (K2tog, yo) × 2, k3, yo, k2, ssk × 3, yo, k2. (16 sts)
Row 38: Yo, p2tog tbl, p13, k1.
Row 39: K1, (yo, k2tog) × 2, k2, yo, k1, yo, sssk × 2, k2. (14 sts)
Row 40: Yo, p1, p2tog tbl, p9, k1. (13 sts)
Row 41: K1, (yo, k2tog) × 2, k2, yo, k3, sssk, k1.
Row 42: Yo, p2tog tbl, p10, k1.
Row 43: Kfb, (yo, k2tog) × 2, k2, yo, k2tog, k4. (14 sts)
Row 44: Yo, p2tog tbl, p10, k2.
Row 45: K2, yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog × 3, k4. (12 sts)
Row 46: Yo, p2tog tbl, p8, k2.
Row 47: K1, kfb, yo, k2tog, k3tog × 2, k2. (9 sts)
Row 48: Yo, p2tog tbl, p2tog, p2, k3. (8 sts)
Row 49: K3, yo, k3tog, k2. (7 sts)

Stitch Glossary
grey no stitch : No stitch.
k2tog : Knit 2 stitches together.
k3tog : Knit 3 stitches together.
knit into fb : Knit into front and back of same stitch.
knit : Knit.
p2tog : Purl 2 together.
p2tog tbl : Purl 2 together through back loops.
purl : Purl.
ssk : Slip, slip, knit.
sssk : Slip, slip, slip, knit.
yo : Yarn over.

 

Dayflower Edging with the flat side on the Left

Row 1 (RS): Yo, k3tog, yo, ssk, yo, k3. (8 sts)
Row 2 (WS): K3, p5.
Row 3: Yo, k2tog, yo, k1, (yo, ssk) x 2, k1. (9 sts)
Row 4: K2, p7.
Row 5: Yo, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, yo, k2. (11 sts)
Row 6: K2, p9.
Row 7: Yo, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, k2, (ssk, yo) x 2, ssk. (12 sts)
Row 8: K1, p11.
Row 9: Yo, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, k2, (ssk, yo) x 2, k1. (14 sts)
Row 10: K1, p13.
Row 11: Yo, k2tog, yo, k1, (yo, k2, ssk) x 2, yo, ssk, yo, kfb. (17 sts)
Row 12: K2, p15.
Row 13: Yo, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, k2, ssk x 3, yo, ssk, yo, k2.
Row 14: K2, p15.
Row 15: (Yo, k2tog) x 2, k2, yo, k1, yo, sssk x 2, ssk, yo, kfb, k1. (16 sts)
Row 16: K3, p2, p2tog tbl, p9. (15 sts)
Row 17: (Yo, k2tog) x 2, k2, yo, k3, yo, sssk, yo, k3. (16 sts)
Row 18: K3, p13.
Row 19: Yo, k2tog, (yo, k2tog, k2) x 2, yo, k1, (yo, ssk) x 2, k1. (17 sts)
Row 20: K2, p15.
Row 21: Yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog x 3, k2, yo, k3, yo, ssk, yo, k2.
Row 22: K2, p15.
Row 23: Yo, k2tog, k3tog x 2, yo, k1, yo, k2, (ssk, yo) x 2, ssk. (14 sts)
Row 24: K1, p9, p2tog, p2. (13 sts)
Row 25: Yo, k3tog, yo, k3, yo, k2, (ssk, yo) x 2, k1. (14 sts)
Row 26: K1, p13.
Row 27: Yo, k2tog, yo, k1, (yo, k2, ssk) x 2, yo, ssk, yo, kfb. (17 sts)
Row 28: K2, p15.
Row 29: Yo, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, k2, ssk x 3, yo, ssk, yo, k2.
Row 30: K2, p15.
Row 31: (Yo, k2tog) x 2, k2, yo, k1, yo, sssk x 2, ssk, yo, kfb, k1. (16 sts)
Row 32: K3, p2, p2tog tbl, p9. (15 sts)
Row 33: (Yo, k2tog) x 2, k2, yo, k3, yo, sssk, yo, k3. (16 sts)

Repeat Rows 18-33 until the edging is 2 flowers short of the end.

Row 34: K3, p13.
Row 35: Yo, k2tog, (yo, k2tog, k2) x 2, yo, k1, (yo, ssk) x 2, k1. (17 sts)
Row 36: K2, p15.
Row 37: Yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog x 3, k2, yo, k3, (yo, ssk) x 2. (16 sts)
Row 38: K1, p15.
Row 39: Yo, k2tog, k3tog x 2, yo, k1, yo, k2, (ssk, yo) x 2, k1. (14 sts)
Row 40: K1, p9, p2tog, p2. (13 sts)
Row 41: Yo, k3tog, k3, yo, k2, (ssk, yo) x 2, k1.
Row 42: K1, p12.
Row 43: Yo, k2tog, (k2, ssk, yo) x 2, ssk, yo, kfb. (14 sts)
Row 44: K2, p12.
Row 45: Yo, k2tog, k2, ssk x 3, yo, ssk, yo, k2. (12 sts)
Row 46: K2, p10.
Row 47: Yo, k2tog, sssk x 2, ssk, yo, kfb, k1. (9 sts)
Row 48: K3, p2, p2tog tbl, p2. (8 sts)
Row 49: Yo, k2tog, sssk, yo, k3. (7 sts)

knitting chart of the Dayflower Edging with Flat Side on the Left Side

 

Bind off using the nearly matching bind off:

To bind off: Row 1:  Yo, sl1, k1, psso.  Turn.

Row 2: Sl1, k1, psso. Turn

Repeat rows 1 and 2 across your fabric until there is 1 st left, pull thread through loop.

I usually update the blog on Fridays, but Tuesday, January 5, 2021, I will be announcing a new pattern!

Thank you for reading my blog.  Happy New Year!  God bless you.

17 Responses

  1. Hi. Just knitting your Dayflower pattern. On the first page row 40
    You have a (purl 2 together tbl)
    This should be (purl 3 together tbl)
    Hope this is correct

    1. Hi Heather!

      If you work a purl 3 together tbl on row 40, then on row 41 you will work a k2tog. If you follow the pattern as written, the purl 2 tog tbl is followed by a k3tog on the next row. Either way is fine.

      What are you edging? I want to see photos!
      Christine

  2. Christine, I have run into what seems to be a glitch on row 24, flat side on right. Row 23 has 14 stitches; nothing is done on row 24 which would reduce stitch count to 13, but that is what chart and directions say. Row 25 needs 14 stitches to be worked as charted. What might be the fix for that?
    Wishing I had done flat side on left, seems there are far fewer p2tog tbl on that version.
    It’s such a cute pattern!

    1. Thank you Denise, you are absolutely right!

      I’ve updated the blog post to fix the rows, it’s flowing now in those rows.

      Sincerely,
      Christine

  3. Thank you & sorry to be a pest, but I’m teaching someone this edging Sunday and test running it.

    When you end Row 33, you have 15 sts. Row 18 needs 16 sts. Should the K2tog be a K1 or should the K3tog be a K2tog?

  4. I am trying to figure out the cast-on. Two provincial stitches, 4 loop pickups, and 1 st does not equal 8. And why is the yarn dropped? It puts the yarn on opposite side of needle.

    I know I’m not mental in good shape today but it’s just not computing.

    1. Hi Anne,

      I needed a blog topic for Friday. I can’t promise I’ll get photos up by then to explain the cast on, but I’ll try.

      In the mean time, look at http://www.christineguestdesigns.com/blog/mary-thomass-picot-cast-on/, especially the photo of the picot cast on where the initial 2 provisional stitches have been picked up on the needle as well as the picots along the edge. This is like a long garter tab cast on, the first 2 stitches will be the povisional cast on stitches, the next four will be the 4 picots from the side, the last 2 will be the working stitches of the working end of the picot cast on for a total of 8. I don’t remember why I wrote to put the yarn in any particular spot, but hopefully when I re-create it on film, it will make sense to me as well!

      1. Ah, I’ve remembered what I did with the dropping yarn bit: it should read, “with the back end of a double pointed needle, pick up the 4 loops, pick up the provisionally cast on stitches.” Then when all the stitches are picked up, the yarn is where you want it, not in the middle of all those stitches.

        Thank you very, very much Anne!

        1. Thank you & sorry to be a pest, but I’m teaching someone this edging Sunday and test running it.

          When you end Row 33, you have 15 sts. Row 18 needs 16 sts. Should the K2tog be a K1 or should the K3tog be a K2tog?

          1. Hi Anne,

            Not pesky at all, I need to fix that repeat. The problem is in the garter stitch edging, so the k3tog needs to stay put so that the top of the flower joins the vine. The k2tog needs to be a k1, and then everything needs to adjust a few rows up. I’ll try to get this fixed up before Friday, I hope by weekend you mean Saturday 😉 Did you see the photos on the response blog post of how to do the cast on?

            Sincerely,
            Christine

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